Tuesday, 4 July 2017

'Ja-Naï' 2013, Domaine des miroirs

Two years ago we squatted a garden which sounded cool up until we got told to clear out. Now ownership sounds better and you’re saying yeah duh, and I can just hear dad (hey dad!) saying told you so and ok, ok, OK I get it, I hear you, give me just a moment will you? A breathe no bra no worries no punctuation no preoccupation with property ownership’s a feeder to capitalism and I just wanna feed myself -kinda moment. So what I've got 3 vegetables that took 4 months to grow when I find that actually fulfilling, find supermarkets depressing, misleading, full of poison, processing, plastic, suffering, marketing, packaging, waste. Find plastic straws and bottles and seran wrap and individually wrapped teabags, courgettes, peppers, coriander bunches, you name it, ALL IN PLASTIC GOOD HEAVENS a waste; countless hours sat in front of computer self doubting: a waste; much rather stand in mud nettles stinging ankles scooping water and wiggle tadpoles in bucket to water so please please please don’t take away our garden though I should mention that, once we’d cleared the space, the first thing we did was to put up a fence. So it’s always been a little bit about ownership.

And growing sunflowers. And Mexican sunflowers. And poppies and astor and cosmos and sweetpeas and hollyhocks and one of those wildflower good-for, god save the bees mixes and a ‘pale cut flowers’ mix, though I think it’s cruel to actually cut flowers, and our Christmas tree from two years ago and a plum tree and two rows of corn up to my waist and a big awkward cucumber and dog zucchini and a crazy wild growing sage and trees of swiss chard and cavolo nero or just kale and a pumpkin and endive and soft lettuce heads and broad beans and string beans and having a place to put our hands in dirt and make stick fences and stone paths and play pioneer or whatever and also three marijuana plants which maaaaay have been the problem. 

Kenjiro Kagmi's "Ja-Naï" 2013 reminds me of garden. Of bramble, pulling nettles, weeds, hands and knees knock-knocking clumps of dark, wet root dirt, hot (plastic!) bagged manure. Of the breeze breezing over the smell of cut grass which is to say the smell of someone with an actual garden with actual grass, not nettles. Of bunches of herbs nailed to a beam to dry, not to forget. Of bay leaves and basil and roses and Angostura Bitters which sorta technically comes from gardens.

Tasting notes:

A Ploussard made by a Japanese in the Jura in a limestone vineyard full of flowers. There's melty marzipan and a packet of red fruit gummies you left in the sun on the back seat of the car plus somehow the taste sensation of your tongue on cold mineral metal plus see above. 


"Ja-Naï" 2013
Domaine des Miroirs, Kenjiro Kagmi
Grusse, Jura

Jan brought this over but the domaine is imported to NL by Just Add Wine.


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